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 When
you're talking about getting bulbs to bloom indoors, it's usually
called "forcing bulbs." The word "force,"
though seems to be a bit harsh; maybe "coax" would
be a better choice. After all, we're talking about bulbs, flowers
that produce delicate blooms, like wispy, white paper narcissus
blossoms, or a soft pink hyacinth. But, since the prevailing
terminology says, "force," then force it is!
Getting
Started
Start with a plan. Although
forcing bulbs isn't as as large scale as planning a vegetable
garden, you still need to develop a plan so that you have all
the right tools and other necessities for the project. You can
start your plan by asking yourself these questions:
•
What kind of bulbs do you want to bloom?
There
are several different varieties of bulbs available to grow,
but some are easier to grow than others.
These varieties are easier
to grow:
- crocus, hyacinth, lily-of-the-valley, daffodils (the mini
variety), Chinese Sacred Lily, narcissus, and the great Christmas
bloomer -- amaryllis. Also, consider muscari, (plant plenty
of these, they're small), colchium(can even grow on a windowsill
without water or soil…will begin blooming in about two
weeks) and iris (especially iris reticulata are easy to force).
Tulips, on the other hand,
require a little more effort and planning, but can be very beautiful
and worth the extra effort.
•
When do you want your bulbs to bloom?
•
Do you have a specific event that you need the flowers for,
like Christmas or a wedding, or do you simply want to bloom
bulbs to add color to your home in the drab winter months?
 You
may want your blossoms for beauty during and after Christmas
(the popular Amaryllis bulb comes to mind, here). Maybe you
want something beautiful for after the holiday season; to brighten
a corner left bare when the tree was taken down, to sit on a
windowsill and brighten the gray skies coming into the house,
or as a coffee table plant to herald the coming of spring! Forced
bulbs in pretty, or unique containers can also be a centerpiece
for a celebration such as New Year's or Valentine's Day. Perhaps
you are planning a late winter/early spring wedding. A beautiful
accent at the reception would be bowls of "paperwhites"
(Narcissus tazetta) and white hyacinths as table decorations!
Develop a Time-Frame
Once
you know what kind of bulbs you would like to force and when
you would like them, now you must figure out the time-frame
that it will take to accomplish this. The whole idea of forcing
bulbs is to expose the bulbs to fall, winter, and early spring
conditions over a shortened time-frame.
To bloom bulbs during the
winter and early spring months, purchased bulbs in very late
summer or early fall. The forcing process should start in the
fall, depending upon the length of chilling and blooming.
If you pot your bulbs in
October, most of them should be in full bloom by February. If
the bulbs are meant to be Christmas presents, begin planting
in September (or at the very latest, early October). By Christmas,
most of the bulbs should have tiny shoots of foliage that will
be in full bloom in a couple of months.
Of these, paper white narcissus,
Chinese sacred lily and amaryllis can be started without pre-chilling.
Lily-of-the-valley are often pre-cooled when you buy them, so
you probably won't have to include chilling time for them either.
Check the packaging carefully or ask the nursery/greenhouse/
or superstore where you buy them.
The
Forcing Process
(1)
How to pick a bulb
Start
your project by purchasing healthy bulbs that are firm to the
touch and free of mold. Check to make sure that there is no
knife damage (this can happen when they're packaged or at the
store).
(2) Storing the Bulbs
When you get your bulbs home
from the store, keep them in paper bags that have holes in them
until you are ready to plant them. Unplanted bulbs need to be
kept cool and dry to prevent early sprouting. A dry basement
or garage area can be used - as long as it is cool. Bulbs can
even be stored in a dry area of your refrigerator. Care should
be taken if this method is used, because the bulbs can interact
with ripening fruit, which gives off a gas that can cause the
bulb not to bloom!
(3) Planting the Bulbs
Bulbs can be planted in soil,
soil-less growing mediums, or water. Check the bulb planting
instructions on the packaging or with the expert at your local
nursery or greenhouse to find the best growing medium for your
bulbs. After you have decided your method of planting, you should
choose a container that will be best for the bulb(s) and the
growing medium you have selected. If you are growing in potting
soil or potting compound, any well-drained pot or container
will be excellent. Be sure to choose a pot or pots that will
allow two inches of soil or more under the bulbs for root growth.
Common potting soil with a little sand mixed in is a good potting
medium. Because bulbs are little factories of energy and nutrition,
they don't require fertilizing or the pre-fertilized potting
soils.
Plant bulbs with the pointed
side up, having them level with the top of the pot. Plant them
close together for the best show of blooms, but leave a small
gap between each bulb and the side of the pot. Directions on
the bulb packaging will give bulb-planting depth. Then, cover
the bulbs with soil and gently pat down. Water and allow to
drain. They are now ready to go through chilling/rooting time.
For the tulip bulbs, only,
remember to plant these bulbs in soil with the flat side facing
the rim of your pot. When the tulips begin to have foliage and
blooms, the large outer leaves will drape gracefully over the
edge of the pot.
(4) Chilling
Most bulbs will need a "chilling
period." This would be akin to the dormant period in winter,
when the bulb would be at rest underground.
This chilling process is
an important step in forcing bulbs. They will require a constant
temperature of about 35¾ F to 45¾ F (or 1.67¾ C to 7.2¾ C).
During this time the root system will begin to form in preparation
for blooming. A dry, cool basement is a great area for chilling
your potted bulbs. A garage or shed is also sufficient, providing
the temperature is well monitored. If you are ambitious in this
project, you could construct a temporary "cold box"
out of one-inch foam insulting board, purchased at Home Depot
or other building supply store. This material can be easily
measured and cut with a box cutter. Tape your board together
with boxing tape, making a true box, with a bottom, sides and
a top that is removable. The inside dimensions should be no
larger than required for the quantity of pots and ice your box
in a cool area of the basement, garage, or yard. For ice to
keep your cold box at the desired temperature, fill milk cartons
with water and freeze. For those in the Southern climates, you
may have to refrigerate your pots to keep the bulbs cool, or
perhaps construct a cold box. Remember to keep the light levels
low and the temperature above freezing. You may want to use
a thermometer to monitor the temperature and to keep the bulbs
from freezing. Continue to water during the chilling process.
Keep the soil damp, but not wet.
(5) Shooting
After the required chilling
time, place the pots of bulbs in a cool area of the house, with
indirect sunlight. As the shoots begin to grow and turn green,
they can be moved to warmer area of the house with direct sunlight.
Remember to rotate the pots often to promote shoot's growth,
straight and strong! It is important to continue watering the
bulbs throughout their life cycles. In just a few weeks, you
should have colorful indoor blooms.
Individual
Bulb Tips
Paperwhite Narcissus
The paperwhite narcissus does
not require a chilling time and can be grown in water/gravel.
Paperwhites are often grown in shallow containers of gravel.
Place your bulbs on a layer of gravel; then fill in with enough
gravel to hold the bulbs, but not cover them. For a real showy
display, crowd your bulbs together. Add water to the container
just to the base of the bulbs, but not touching them. Bulbs
can rot if allowed to sit in water. Place the container in a
sunny place and watch them grow! When my mother, the late Virginia
B. Smith (Logan, Utah Stake), was teaching at Jefferson Grade
School, in Spokane, Washington, she made sure she always started
paperwhites growing in January. Her first-graders could then
watch the roots start in a day or so, watch through the several
stages of growth, and see a beautiful display of flowers in
three to five weeks! If the plantings are staggered over a three
to four week period, each container will be at a different stage
of growth, making an interesting looking arrangement for a holiday
table or wedding table decoration.
Hyacinth
The beautiful and heady-fragranced
flowering hyacinth is grown in water. These bulbs will need
to spend about 10 weeks in temperatures of about 50¾ F (10¾
C). Rooting a hyacinth is best done in a forcing jar. You can
find these jars in garden centers, hobby shops, or florist shops.
They look like hourglasses with the tops cut off. Because of
their construction, they allow the bulb to sit just above the
water. Place bulb in the container and add water up to, but
not touching the base of the bulb. Place in a cool, dark area
until the root system is well developed and the bulb is beginning
to sprout (about 10 weeks). Be sure to add water occasionally,
keeping the level of the water close to the bottom of the bulb.
When the shoot is about two inches tall bring the jar to an
area that has low light and slightly warmer temperature. Over
the week, move the hyacinth into a sunny window. As the flowers
begin to appear, keep it in a bright, indirect light. As with
the narcissus, rotate your plant a bit each day so that the
flowers do not lean to one side, reaching for the sun. Remember
to add water, keeping the level just under the base of the bulb.
A caution: once you have
forced a bulb, in most cases that bulb is "exhausted"
and cannot be used again as the supply of nutrients is spent.
The one exception to this rule is the amaryllis. If the bulb
has not been damaged, re-pot in a clean container with the neck
of the bulb above the soil. Water the bulb and place in a cool
sunny spot. Water very sparingly until the sprouts begin to
appear, then keep your plant moist. In six to eight weeks the
plant will bloom again.
Forcing bulbs is not too difficult - it just takes a little
time, planning and patience. What a joy it is to watch the bulbs
root, sprout, grow, and then flower! The reward for your effort
is the beautiful flower and the lovely scent to enjoy, while
the snow and cold whirl around outside.
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