Ultimate Guide to Stain Removal
by Carol Harlow, staff writer

Sometimes when I do laundry I run across a stain I know won't come out in the regular wash cycle. I did a little research and found some good stain removal techniques, and came up with some great tips that will help any mommy keep their clothes (especially the kids) stain free. You might find this stain guide to be invaluable and you'll probably want to put it on the inside of your laundry room cabinet above your washer, or on the wall.

Stain Removal Facts

 -  Treat stains as soon as possible. The older the stain, the more difficult it will be to remove. One tip that I have found that works well on white clothes, even when they have gone through the dryer is to soak them in very hot water with 1 cup of bleach and your regular amount of laundry detergent. Fill your washer with the least amount of water that you'll need to cover the clothes, add bleach and detergent, agitate enough to mix, then add the stained clothing. Soak overnight, then start your washer and wash using an extra rinse.
 -  All stain removal methods should be applied prior to laundering washable garments. Stains that have been laundered and dried are almost impossible to remove.
 -  Chlorine bleach is not recommended for use with silk, wool or Spandex because it will yellow and weaken the fibers. Chlorine bleach will lighten colored fabrics. Use an oxygen bleach such as Clorox 2 for colored fabrics.
 Stains   Remedies
 Baby Formula  Soak in a laundry product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes (several hours for aged stains). DO NOT USE HOT WATER as it will coagulate the protein in the formula and make stain more difficult to remove. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then re-wash. Follow product use instructions. Some laundry detergents, such as Biz Bleach, contain enzymes. After soaking, launder in warm water as usual.
 Blood  If it's a fresh stain, soak in cold water. For a dried stain, soak in warm water with a enzyme laundry cleaner; launder.
 Candle Wax

 Scrape off surface wax with dull knife. Place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm, dry iron setting. Move paper towels frequently to absorb wax and avoid transferring stains. Do not iron stains with colored candle wax. Heat will drive the colored wax deeper into fabric yarns and often permanently set the wax dye.
Instead, place stain area face down on clean paper towels. Sponge stain area with nonflammable dry cleaning solvent such as Energine. Let dry. Launder. If any color remains, rewash using a bleach-safe detergent.

Another idea for wax removal: Put the soiled fabric between two paper grocery sacks, put a towel over the top grocery sack and then apply a hot iron. This melts the wax, which is then absorbed by the paper sacks.

Chewing Gum  Apply ice or cold water to harden residue. Scrape off excess with dull knife. Place stain area face down on an absorbent paper towel or cloth. Sponge with non- flammable dry cleaning solvent such as Energine. Move stain area to different locations on absorbent material as it picks up.
Chocolate and Cocoa  As with all stains, treat chocolate stains as soon as possible. Soak in cold water. Rub detergent into stain while still wet, then rinse thoroughly. Dry. If a greasy stain remains, sponge with a safe cleaning fluid. Rinse. Soak in a solution of cool water and an enzyme detergent. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. If stain remains, bleach with hydrogen peroxide. Wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and add a drop or two of ammonia. Add more hydrogen peroxide and a drop of ammonia as needed to keep stain moist. Do not bleach longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with water and launder as usual. (NOTE: Ammonia should not be used on washable silks or wools).
 Crayon

 Scrape off surface wax with dull knife. Place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm, dry iron setting. Move paper towels frequently to absorb wax and avoid transferring stains. After removing as much stain as possible this way, place stain area face down on clean paper towels. Sponge stain area with nonflammable dry cleaning solvent such as Energine. Let dry. Launder. If any color remains, rewash using a bleach safe for fabric.

For a washer or dryer load of crayon marked clothes, use in home dry cleaning system or take the the professional cleaners.

For more information about getting out crayons from clothes, check out this link from the Crayola company http://www.crayola.com/canwehelp/staintips/stain.cfm
Or give them a call at 1-800- CRAYOLA.

 Deodorants and Antiperspirants  For light stains, pretreat with a liquid laundry detergent. Launder. If heavy stain, pretreat with a laundry pretreater and allow to stand for 5 to 10 minutes or soak in warm water with presoak product for 15-30 minutes. Launder using an oxygen bleach (color-safe bleach).
 Egg  Egg is a protein stain which can be removed by soaking in cold water before laundering. Cold water will soften stains when fresh, but if they are old, then pre-soak in an enzyme detergent before laundering.
 Feces  Soak in an enzyme detergent or bleach. Launder with detergent and bleach.
 Grass  Soak stain for 30 minutes or overnight in a solution of water and an enzyme detergent or bleach. Launder. If stain persists, rewash using bleach. Avoid using heat and/or alkali products such as ammonia and some degreaser products. They can set the tannin and vegetable dye in grass stains.
 Grease, Vegetable or Cooking Oils  If light stain, use a pretreater. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. If heavy or old stain, place stain face down on paper towel. Apply dry cleaning solvent such as Energine to back of stain. Replace towels under stain frequently. Let dry, rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric.
 Ink

There are quite a few products on the market for removing ink stains (available at drug stores, fabric stores or department stores or possibly office supply stores).
Some inks in each of the following types--ballpoint, felt tip and liquid--may be impossible to remove. Laundering may set some inks. Try one of the following:
laundry pretreater: spray on stain area; launder.
rubbing alcohol or dry cleaning solvent: First sponge area around stain before applying directly to stain. Place stain face down on paper towels. Apply alcohol or dry cleaning solvent such as Energine to back of stained area. Replace paper towels frequently. Rinse thoroughly and launder.

Note: Some people swear by hair spray as a means of taking out ink stains. This is because most hair sprays contain alcohol. The disadvantage of using hair spray is the lacquer from the spray is deposited on the fabric and creates another stain.

 Lipstick  Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge back of stain with dry cleaning solvent (Energine). Move fabric to clean area of towels frequently. Rinse. Rub liquid soap or light-duty detergent in stain until outline is gone. Launder.
 Mildew

 Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Don't give mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If mildew spots remain, treat washable articles as described below.

Dry clean non-washable articles.

Washable articles: Pretreat stains. Launder in the hottest water appropriate for the fabric. Use chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric. If stain remains, sponge with hydrogen peroxide (available at drug stores). Rinse and launder.
Upholstered Articles, Mattresses, and Rugs: Remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered articles, mattresses, rugs and carpets by brushing with a broom in the outdoors to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house. If surface is vacuumed, remove and dispose of the bag to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
Dry articles by using electric heater and fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air articles to stop mold growth.
If mildew remains, sponge surface lightly with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible. Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water. Dry article thoroughly.
Mildewed carpets and rugs should be thoroughly cleaned and dried. Dry in sun if possible. Contact commercial cleaning company for extreme cases. If mold has grown into the inner part of an article, contact commercial cleaner. The item may not be cleanable and will have to be disposed of.

Mildew Removal from Painted Walls  Scrub with a solution of trisodium phosphate, a disinfectant, or a solution of 1/2 cup bleach and 12 cup mild detergent in a gallon of warm water. Dry thoroughly. Remove mildew thoroughly before repainting. Check with local hardware store. Some mildew resistant paints are available to use in areas prone to mildew.
Mildew Removal from Basements Scrub basement walls and floors with a disinfectant solution made with products like pine oil, Pinesol or Lysol or use a solution of chlorine bleach and water. Dry with heat and or ventilation.
Mildew Removal from Shower Curtains  Launder shower curtain on a gentle washer cycle. Add one to two white or light colored bath towels to the load and one cup chlorine bleach to the laundry water. Launder as usual. To counteract the action of the bleach, add one cup vinegar to the rinse water.
 Mud  Let mud stains dry naturally before treating for stain removal. When the mud is dry, brush or vacuum to remove as much of the soil as possible. Then moisten the stain with water and apply liquid laundry detergent or a paste made of powdered detergent and water. Let stand for several minutes. Then launder using warm water. Check the stained area when removed from the washer. If a stain still remains, flush with rubbing alcohol and rinse with clear water before drying. Final traces of mud stains can be removed by laundering the garments in water with an addition of chlorine bleach. Check garment labels carefully to determine if the fabric and dyes will tolerate chlorine bleach.
 Mustard  Hot water and detergent can set mustard stains, so pretreat before washing. Scrape off excess. Pretreat and launder using a bleach safe for fabric.
Chlorine bleach is not recommended for colored clothing because it will lighten the colors. Use an oxygen bleach, such as Clorox 2, for colored garments.
 Perspiration  Use a pretreater stain or rub with a bar of soap. If perspiration has changed the color of the fabric, apply ammonia to fresh stains, white vinegar to old stains and rinse. Launder with hottest water safe for fabric.
 Rust  Soaking the stain in lemon juice may remove light stains. If not, use a commercial rust removal product such as Iron Out or Whink. Follow package directions carefully. Launder as usual. Soaking stains in chlorine bleach is not recommended. Bleach tends to set rust stains in fabrics.
 Scorched Badly scorched fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Launder using chlorine bleach, if safe for fabric, or soak in oxygen bleach (safe for colored fabrics) and hot water; launder.
 Skunk Odor  Most skunk odors call for more powerful cleaning agents. Check with your local veterinarian, rodent control center or the fish and wildlife office with your state's department of conservation. They might carry products or know who locally carries products to combat skunk odor. Some can be used to clean clothing as well as dogs and people who have been sprayed. Two possible brand name products are: "Skunk-Off" and "Nil-Odor".
 Urine  Soak in an enzyme detergent or bleach. Launder using bleach safe for the fabric that's stained. Old urine stains and odors may be impossible to remove.

The following excerpt was taken with permission from the Board of Trustees of the University of Illinois, the University of Illinois, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences. Copyright © 1995.

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