| What
You'll Need: (aka all the
necessary equipment needed to make your own).
1. Sewing
machine, in good working order, with plenty of thread. Also consider
using a heavy duty sewing machine needle, one designed for use
with heavy fabrics or denim. Have extra needles, and thread on
hand, just in case.
2. Good quality shears, sharp and thread scissors
3. Rotary cutting mat.
4. Rotary cutter, sharp, and a new blade - just in case.
5. A clear quilting ruler (OmniGrid is one brand.. Mine is 24”
long and 4” wide)
6. Yarn for tying (about the size that would be used on a size
7 or 8 knitting needle.), any color.
7. Batting for the middle, to the desired loft (loft = fluffiness
factor. I use low loft so it is not excessively poofy). And to
your desired measurements. (This can be bought after you finish
the top)
8. Material for the backing. You generally want the backing fabric
to be about 4” wider on all four sides, than your top. Typically
this material is a 100% cotton fabric, but other fabrics can work
too... corduroy, a heavy polyester/cotton blend, heavy cotton
- twill, flannel, etc,.will work too. Do not choose denim, it
will make it extremely heavy. Sheets are also not recommended
the fabric is so tightly woven (aka thread count) that it makes
quilting difficult. This can also be purchased after the top is
done.
9. Basting Pins. These are available at craft stores, Wal-Mart,
etc. they look like bent safety pins. For a queen sized quilt,
I use two boxes.
10. Needles for tying. These need to be long, large eyed, straight,
and strong. I have found that doll making needles work well. As
long as it fits those requirements, then it should be fine.
11. Straight pins for pinning the denim together and for use in
the binding.
12. Quilting thread for the binding.
13. DENIM! Lots of it. Collect old jeans, old denim shirts. Flannel
can also be useful and be a great source of color and texture.
This supply
list may seem like a lot, but if you ask sisters at church and
neighbors or scout out thrift stores and garage sales, you can
probably find some of the materials floating around. The rest
are available at craft stores, sewing centers, quilting stores
as well as discount department stores like Wal-Mart, Target, A.C.
Moore.
Rendering
down a pair of jeans or a denim shirt for fabric.
The main thing to keep in mind when it comes to rendering down a pair
of jeans or a denim shirt is to eliminate any heavy seams. Heavy
seams can be really hard, or impossible for your sewing machine
to sew over or through. Rendering down just means you follow the
seams, cutting it all apart, removing seems and other metal parts.
But here’s a step by step process.
Jeans:
- Cut off
waistband, including belt loops and metal grommets. Discard.
- Cut off
the seams at the ankles. Discard.
- Cut out
zipper/button fly, extra zippers. Discard. (some like to keep
these and use them, but for our purposes, we’re going
to discard them.)
- Follow
the cut out fly, and cut to the back panel, creating two separate
legs, including the back pockets on each.
- Follow
the inner seam of the pant leg and cut the length of it.
- You now
have a flat piece of fabric, instead of a tube, or leg of fabric.
- Cut out
the heavier seam (this is the one that is folded on the outside.
If it’s not folded on the outside, still cut it out.)
- You now
have two pieces of fabric per pant leg.
- Back pockets
are up to you.
- Repeat
on other leg.
Denim
Shirts:
- Cut off
cuffs. Discard.
- Cut off
the collar below the top button/button hole. Discard.
- Cut out
the button panel/button hole panel. Discard. (some people like
to save the button for other purposes, such as mending; that’s
up to you.)
- Cut out
the sleeves following the arm socket/sleeve seam. Repeat for
other sleeve.
- Taking
the sleeve, cut along the seam that runs lengthwise from underarm
to wrist. Repeat on other sleeve.
- You now
have a vest.
- Cut out
the front panels of the shirt. Follow the side seams that run
from the end of the shirt to arm hole. Then go to the top of
the panel, follow the shoulder to neck seam, and cut. Repeat
on other panel.
- You now
have just the back of the shirt.
- Cut out
the top panel of the shirt. This usually spans the shoulder
span of the shirt and is generally two ply. This is also (on
the inside) where the label is. Follow the seams, and cut around
it, cutting the panel out. Discard.
- You now
have just the back panel of fabric left. Cut the bottom seam
out. Discard.
Finding
Denim Obviously
your own closets may contain a great supply of old jeans that
either don't fit, aren't in style, have a ripped out knee or have
other issues making them unwearable, but you can also find denim
in other spots... thrift stores and garage sales are great places
to find old denim in a variety of different colors and washes.
The 80s provided a large range of colors and washes that are great
for adding character or for helping to show a distinct pattern
or design in your quilt top. Also don't be afraid to ask friends
and neighbors for their old jeans - especially the ones that aren't
of use to anyone else - ripped out or stained.
Cutting/Choosing
a pattern
I said earlier,
that one reason I love making denim quilts is because they are
so un-fussy, is still true. The one thing you do need to pay attention
to is that your pieces of denim need to be generally the same
size or measurements.
Because I
don’t like measuring, I try to make it as simple as possible.
There are many different patterns one can make using denim. But
I am going to show you two of the simplest and least finicky.
Use your imagination and creativity to make your own look and
design.
Strip
or Chain Quilting In strip quilting you randomly sew
strips or squares of fabric together, until you reach your desired
dimensions.
Roman
Coins is a type of strip quilting. There are solid ‘columns’
of fabric, next to ‘coins’ (smaller pieces of fabric,
same width, smaller height, of different color/fabrics. It is
to look like a tall stack of coins.)
We are providing
directions for both.
Random
Strip Quilting:
-
Choose the width you want. I generally go with the width
of my ruler or slightly wider, about 4 - 6 inches.
-
Lay your fabric on the cutting mat, lay your ruler on
top of it so you can see the width and height.
-
With your rotary cutter, cut strips as long the length
of the piece of denim you're working with. Keep the
width consistent. Since we're working with irregular
shapes and pieces of denim, end your strip once the
width of the piece starts to narrow. Set any scrap pieces
aside for use elsewhere in this top or for another project.
Generally, I make my strips about 6” wide and
go as long as is available or as long as my ruler (24”).
Don’t
worry if you don’t have the necessary length.
You can always piece shorter pieces together to make
longer pieces. Patches and scraps (as long as they are
a decent size) have their place and can always be utilized.
Save them for tight spots, or use them as aplique on
the top as Rebecca has done in her quilt pictured at
the right.
- Once
you have your strips cut, start sewing them together
into longer strips - Before starting, you'll want to
determine the desired length and/or width of the quilt
top. If you want your strips to run vertically, you'll
need to first determine your length, for horizontal
strips, your width. Sew strips to this length, and then
sew the strips to each other to the desired end size.
Where possible stagger your seams. This helps elevate
bulk and hide sewing imperfections.
|



|
Roman Coins Pattern:
Roman
coins is made up of columns of solid color fabric and columns
of coins made from pieces of different fabrics in different
colors.
-
When cutting your pieces of denim (columns) and pieces
of flannel (or other fabrics for the coins), keep the
coins and columns the same width - 5". Only the
length will vary.
- Determine
the desired length of the quilt - approximate or exact
measurements - either will work.
- Coins
- I cut my coins 5" x 8”. Shorter
pieces (less than 8" long) can be sewn together
to cut to 5" x 8". Sew the 5" x 8"
coins together, along the 8" side, repeating until
you reach the desired length. Your strip will be 8"
wide and ___" long.
- Columns
- cut strips of denim 5" wide and as long as you
can given the piece of denim you're using. Save larger
scraps for use in this project or in a future project.
Sew each strip together along the 5" side. Create
a strip the same length as your strip of coins.
- Once
you have made a stack of coins, and a column of color
(they should be the same height), pin them together
right side facing each other, sew together.
- Repeat,
until you have the desired size quilt top. FYI - 6 columns
and 6 stacks of coins covers a queen size bed.
CRAFTY CHIC NOTE:
Rebecca's finished Roman Coin's quilt is pictured right.
She used old flannel shirts as her Roman coins fabric
to add color and interest. Using only denim this could
be achieved using all light wash or all dark wash denim
for the coins. The higher the contrast between the coins
and the columns the more noticeable the pattern and
design. |


|
Specifics
about Sewing the Top together
The rules
of sewing apply regardless of pattern.
Once you
have cut all of your denim into strips, pin them together with
straight pins, right sides facing each other, wrong sides facing
out. Make sure that the edges are straight. Space your pins about
2" apart.
If the two
pieces you are sewing together are not equal in length, stop,
and adding (using one of the scraps you've saved) if you need
more length or subtracting fabric, if you need less. Once the
pieces are equal, continue.
Once pinned,
go to the sewing machine, determine a seam allowance – how
much room do you want between your stitches and the edge of the
fabric. Given the weight of the fabrics being using I recommend
using ½” seam allowance.
Then sew
and sew and sew following the directions given for a Random Strip
Quilt or Roman Coins, or a pattern you've chosen of your own.
It’s
generally easier to sew pieces right to left or left to right
- in rows. Also don’t be afraid to put some pieces on their
sides, or to put them laying horizontally underneath the other
pieces/panels. (Just remember to make sure the lengths line up…)
Repeat this
process until your quilt top has reached your desired size. This
can be from following a specific pattern, or dimension, or just
by spreading it out on the floor, lying on top of it, and seeing
if your feet and hands can touch the carpet on either side. It’s
all up to you.
Basting
When your
quilt top has reached your desired size, you may notice that your
edges aren’t even. If this is so, just trim them so they’re
even and continue.
Basting is
done so that the three layers of your quilt stay together and
don’t shift while you tie it.
- Make
sure your backing is about 3-4” wider than your top. Spread
it out on the floor. Then take the batting and spread it out
on top of the backing. Smooth out any bubbles, wrinkles or folds.
Your batting should be about 1-2” less than the backing.
Don’t use denim for the backing because it will make the
entire thing far too heavy. Use good, sturdy cotton, or a poly
cotton blend. If you want to get creative you can take squares
of different colors or fabrics (like corduroy and flannel for
example) and make designs with the backing. If you are making
designs on the backing (as seen in the picture,) make sure the
pretty/right side is facing down.
- Then spread
out the quilt top of the batting. (You may want a second set
of hands for this part). Smooth it out over top of the batting.
No part of the top should be without batting. Preferably ½”-1”
of batting should protrude from underneath. Smooth out any wrinkles,
or bubbles.
- You’ve
now made your quilt sandwich. What do we see in the restaurants
with big sandwiches? Toothpicks to hold it in place! Bring out
the basting Safety Pins!
- With your
basting safety pin, poke through all three layers of the quilt
sandwich, back up through, and then fasten the pin. Repeat this
process all over the quilt, smoothing and spreading the top
as you go. These pins will hold the quilt in place until it
is entirely tied, and we remove them.
NOTE:
There are other ways to baste, but using the basting safety pins
(they look like bent safety pins) is by far the easiest and quickest,
and isn’t that the whole point of making this type of quilt?
Quick, fun, and painless?
But for the record, here are other methods:
Straight
pins, you can use straight pins the same way we used
the basting safety pins. They will certainly do the same thing.
They may be more prone to slip out of place, so use the longest
straight pins you can find. If you have dogs, cats, and children,
it can be a bit more painful for all involved.
Standard
safety pins, can also be used. If you can't find basting
safety pins, this might be your next best option. Given the bulk
of the denim, batting and backing, use the larger or largest size
safety pins to save your fingers, and allow you to really secure
a good portion of the quilt with each pin.
Traditional
basting is done using a sewing needle with a long length
of thread, tie no knots on the thread, and make long running stitches
all along the quilt, up and down and side to side, all the while
being sure to catch all three layers. Once you've finished the
actual quilting process remove your basting stitches. This method
is fine and has been used for generations, but is perhaps a little
impractical when using such a heavy material and so much more
time consuming, defeating the ‘quick’ aspect of this
quilt.
Tying
Once the
quilt is basted and all three layers are held securely
in place. Tying (or quilting - those little tiny stitches) is
the quilter’s way to ensure all three layers stay in place
permanently, and the quilt doesn't develop bunches of batting
in one corner and a big vacant area in another.
- Decide
which side you want the yarn ties to show. If you want the ties
to show on the back, that means the little fuzzy parts of yarn
will show on the back of the quilt. All that will show on the
front of the quilt is a dash of yarn color. If you choose to
have your ties show on the top, than the opposite is true.
There is no right or wrong answer to whether you want the ties
to show on top or on bottom - it's totally personal choice.
Here are examples - the quilt on the left has the ties showing
on the back of the quilt, and the quilt on the right has the
ties on the front:
- Take your
large eyed doll or darning "tying" needles (see equipment
list) and thread it with a long length of yarn. Having decided
on which side you want the ties to show, poke your needle
from that side. (If I want the ties to show on the back, I poke
form the back, going through the batting then coming out of
the quilt top.) Then make another poke about 3/16" of an
inch away from where you first poked your needle through the quilt
and bring the needle back through. Then cut the yarn and tie
these two ends together in a square knot.
- Repeat
this process over the entire quilt. You can do this in rows,
or in any pattern you choose. Depending on the type
of batting you use will influence how close together your ties
need to be. Generally, they need to be 4-6" apart. Also
make sure you leave enough yarn on either end to tie a good
secure square knot. Afterwards if you want to clean up the appearance,
you can trim the ends to ~ 1" long to look more uniform.
You’re
in the home stretch now! You’re almost there! You can almost
taste it. By now you’re probably already sitting under it
while you watch tv, tying and cutting all that yarn. Well,
take a deep breath. It’s almost over.
The
Binding
For our purposes
in this project, we will be using the extra 4" of backing
fabric we talked about in the beginning for our binding. We will
be folding it over twice, over a small portion of the batting
and quilt top.
- First,
trim any and all excess batting if it hangs out of the quilt
top more than 1/4".
- Next, take
the extra backing fabric and measure how much you have all the
way around your quilt. You want about the same amount all the
way around... and hopefully you have at least 2" - no worries
if you don't, you can make it work. If your backing fabric isn't
a uniform measurement around the quilt - you have 4" on
one side, and 2" on the other - trim the backing fabric
to a uniform measurement. (But read all the binding directions
FIRST before trimming to insure you'll have enough fabric to
do this binding technique).
- Fold the
raw edge of backing fabric to the edge of the denim top and
batting. (If you are short on backing fabric try and just turn
1/2" of backing fabric, toward the quilt top. Then fold
the remaining fabric over the quilt top and batting. Pin in
place through all three layers. Pin every 2" to insure
a secure hold. (Remember that extra set of hands you recruited
before? You may want to get them back for the pinning portion
of this.)
FYI - The binding is one of the first places to wear out on
a quilt, so having a double thickness of fabric here, will help
your quilt last longer.
Start at the end of the top, and pin to the end of that side.
Don’t worry if it’s not perfect. Just make sure
it’s all tucked under and pinned. It will be ok. I promise.
- Thread
a hand sewing needle (not the tieing needle, you need something
smaller, a normal hand-sewing needle is perfect), tie a knot
at the end (and if you want to, knot your needle so the thread
isn’t as prone to come slipping out through the eye, but
that’s up to you) and you’re ready to begin!
- Make your
first stitch coming up from the batting (this will hide your
knot). Then bring your needle to the spot where the thread came
through, and make your next stitch from the tiny space between
the quilt top and the binding. Pull and repeat. This is the
basic binding stitch. When you get to the end of the thread,
make a knot, cut, and start a new thread.
- When you
go to start a new side, fold over the edge that overlaps the
other binding, tucking in the loose bits of string and pin again.
Then repeat the stitching process.
- Repeat
this with the remaining sides.
- Take out
the basting pins, and then bask in the realization that, you
have just completed your first denim quilt!!!
Want
to learn more about quilting? Then you'll want to read
our Quilting
101 article! Pictures of beautiful projects and links to free
block patterns! |